Parkdale (Toronto)

Once an elite residential area of the city, Parkdale is suddenly emerging from a long period of decline. Bordered by Dufferin to the East and Roncesvalles to the West, the neighbourhood is experiencing rapid gentrification along parts of Queen but is still marked by troubled spots that warrant a consistent police presence.
South of Queen to Lakeshore Boulevard is mostly residential with a mix of large homes that date back to the 1800s, poorly planned public housing complexes and boarding houses. The stretch along King is functional at best with many convenience stores, a No Frills and - probably the best pick of the lot - Asia 21, a popular pho joint that caters to the Liberty Village crowd.

At Queen and Lansdowne sits RK's Bollywood Entertainment, probably the best place outside of Little India to discover the latest Bollywood films. They also have a selection of pirated DVDs. Across the street, Mother India serves tasty east-indian roti and mango lassis in confines perhaps best described as the antithesis of ambience. Best to get them to go.

Closer to Roncesvalles, Parkdale's personality begins to change. Numerous antique and vintage clothing stores line both sides of the street west of Sorauren. The Queen West Antique Centre has a huge selection of sofas, chairs, tables and other sought-after vintage furniture. Stella Luna, Frou Frou Vintage and Take Me Back Vintage Clothing are good bets to score designer and retro finds from decades past.

For more contemporary styles, it's worth taking a look at El Toro at the corner of Queen and Triller. The relatively new store stocks a stylish selection of handcrafted women's clothing and accessories, all made by local designers.

The eastern edge near the Parkdale Public Library is where the neighbourhood's gentrification can more clearly be seen. There must be something in the water between Gwynne and Cowan along Queen as this strip keeps sprouting new cafes. Two of the gems include the decidedly eclectic Salvador Darling and the cozy Rustic Cosmo Cafe.

Designer Fabrics, also along this stretch, has long been a destination for interior designers and closet crafters for the city's best selection of upholstery and fabrics. If you spot Audis and BMWs parked nearby, it's a good bet their occupants will be there and not down the street at M&B Yummy, a bare-bones vegetarian-friendly Ethiopian restaurant that has won over locals as well as some of the city's restaurant critics.

Further south, closer to the lake, it's easy to forget about the Sunnyside Pavilion and recently restored Palais Royale. Prior to the 1950s when the city began construction of the Gardiner Expressway, Parkdale extended unobstructed down to Lake Ontario. It was there the Palais played host to the likes of Duke Ellington, Count Bassie and Eddie Duchin's Park Central Orchestra.

Worthy Of Note

Bacchus RotiThis cheerful long standing Trinidadian-style roti joint recently gave itself a face lift with a new sign. But the excellent roti hasn't changed. Outside of Ghandi admirers, many feel this place makes the best roti in the city. Veggie-friendly options include tofu, channa (curried chickpeas), spinach and squash. Goat and jerk chicken are also on the menu.
Easy BreakfastOne of the best brunch places in the city. Famous for their Huevos Divorciados, Easy Breakfast tries its best to accommodate the throngs who line up on weekends for a table. If the wait is too long, there's always the Easy Express Coffee Shop accessible through the back door. And if the stars aren't aligning for whatever reason, a good alternative is Poor John's Cafe a couple of blocks down the street

Common ClothThe most fashionable store west of Trinity Bellwoods Park, Common Cloth at the corner of Gwynne and Queen sells two local sisters' eponymous line of women's clothing. Pants, skirts, dresses, tops. It's all pretty and stylish. For accessories, walk down the street to Make You Look, a jewellery studio and shop featuring unique, hand-crafted items from more than 15 Canadian designers.

KOMA Designs This award-winning furniture and design store has an amazing collection of vintage, retro, modern, functional and imported furniture. Don't forget to have a look at the furniture gallery downstairs. For a selection that features more eco-friendly options, head west to Simone Interiors.

Mitzi's SisterLong before some of the newer bars like Not My Dog, Dragonfly and Chino opened their doors there was Mitzi's Sister. A local institution, Mitzi's Sister has live music every night of the week. While they have a small patio in the back, for some more serious lounging the Cadillac Lounge or even Rhino further east are better options.

Conspiracy Culture - This store has the city's best collection of non-fiction books, DVDs and magazines for conspiracy theorists. A fun spot to talk JFK or 9/11 with like-minded individuals, the store also hosts occasional live lectures and other events that usually draw a packed house.

Forest Hill Village (Toronto)

Spanning a short stretch of Spadina Rd. around Lonsdale Ave., Forest Hill Village is part of Forest Hill, the neighbourhood bordered roughly by the Cedarvale Ravine on the west, Avenue Rd. on the east, St. Clair Ave. on the south and Briar Hill Ave. on the north. One of the most affluent areas of the city, Forest Hill is famous mostly for its luxurious mansions, but there is a forest (well, perhaps merely a sizeable grove) of taller buildings around its edges, particularly in the south-west.

Admittedly, the neighbourhood does not score too many points for cultural diversity. According to the 2001 census, 90% of its population is white (primarily Jewish and Anglo-Saxon), though the number of visible minorities is (very) slowly increasing.
Traditionally known for upscale shopping and dining, Forest Hill Village underwent some significant changes in the last few years. Several stores and restaurants moved out of the area, leaving unsightly abandoned storefronts behind (though new business are starting to move in and fill up the space), and a few indie businesses got squeezed out by chain operations. Nevertheless, the area retains a remarkable "village" feel. Located away from the hustle and bustle of downtown, it is rarely a shopping destination for out-of-the-area visitors. Instead, it serves as a gathering place for the local residents: from flocks of spoiled teenagers to little old ladies from the nearby nursing homes.

Worthy of Note

Mashu Mashu - A relative newcomer to the neighbourhood, this lively Middle Eastern spot has almost instantly become a local favourite. Cheerful and friendly service, reasonable prices, generous portions and above all great food (falafel aficionados, take note; great salads too) have earned this restaurant a crowd of devoted regulars (yours truly included).

Kitsch Boutique - Approaching a 20th anniversary, this facetiously named fashion joint specializes in evening gowns, though it has an upstairs casual wear section. Featuring an eclectic mix of designers, Kitsch Boutique has something for all ages and wallets (check out the bargain basement). A substantial proportion of the clientele is local, but many arrive from lands as remote as Vaughan and Richmond Hill for that perfect prom dress.

The Village Chill - This tiny hole-in-the-wall ice cream parlour packs one big chill, offering 14 flavours of famous Greg's ice cream (I especially recommend ginger and of course roasted marshmallow), and as many of frozen yogurt. It is well loved by the locals, as evinced by relatively short but ever-present line-ups on hot summer afternoons.

Banfi - Despite its inconspicuous location away from Spadina, the Village's main drag, this little ristorante is filled to capacity nearly every night - I'm afraid this secret hasn't been kept very well. Offering authentic Italian fare in a relaxed rustic atmosphere, Banfi is considered by some Toronto chowhounds to have the best traditional pizza in town.

Forest Hill Barber Shop - While women are relaxing in FHV's many spas and salons, the men gather at the legendary Forest Hill Barber Shop. If there was ever a quaint village shop in an urban setting, this is it. Area's oldest business (est. 1931!), it is a meeting place as much as a haircutting joint: many regulars drop by just to chat and load up on the local news. A business with a heart, Forest Hill Barber Shop has been organizing an annual charity golf tournament for the last 12 years, raising over half a million dollars for SickKids.

Best Places to See Autumn Colours in Ontario

Algonquin Park, Ontario - The size, beauty and proximity to Toronto of this 7,725 square kilometre park make it one of the most popular parks in Ontario. The forests, lakes, and rivers that comprise Algonquin Park can only be explored by foot or canoe. The maple trees are at their best at the end of September or early October. The aspens, tamaracks and red oaks reach their peak in the middle or end of October. Consult the Algonquin Fall Color Report for fall colour activity and specific viewing spots.

Agawa Canyon Trip, Ontario - The Algoma Central Railroad/Railway's Agawa Canyon trip, which runs north from Sault Ste Marie in northern Ontario, is another excellent way to see the colours at the end of September / beginning of October. Consult the Weather Network's Fall Colour Reportfor more information on fall foliage in Ontario.

Beaver Valley - Grey County: The area around southern Georgian Bay, about two hours northwest of Toronto, is an excellent choice for an autumn foliage tour. One suggestion is to take County Road 7 south from Meaford, making a stop at Epping for spectacular views of the Niagara Escarpment. Continue south to Kimberley, Eugenia Falls and Flesherton. Returning via Kimberley, go north on County Road 13, following the Beaver River to Thornbury. Grey County Tourism, 1-877-SEE-GREY or http://www.visitgrey.ca/ are useful sources for information on hiking the Bruce Trail, fall events and driving tours.

Elora Gorge and Grand River The Grand River Valley in southwestern Ontario is a spectacular sight in autumn with cascading waterfalls, seven-storey cliffs, pretty towns and villages and dozens of hiking trails. The Elora Gorge and Conservation Area is on the outskirts of the picturesque village of Elora. Drive west on Highway 401 to Highway 6 and drive north past Guelph. To the north of the hamlet of Marden follow County Road 7 to Elora or remain on Highway 6 to Fergus and turn left on to County Road 18 north of the Grand River. Information: 519-846-9742 and www.elora.info/ or www.grandriver.ca/

Fall Festivals and Fairs in Ontario during October: http://www.fallinontario.com/events_2.aspx?nid=4_2 Ontario Fall Colour Report 39th Annual KW OktoberfestKitchener Waterloo, Ontario, October 5-13 http://www.oktoberfest.ca/ For other foliage route ideas in Ontario's Near North visit www.400eleven.com/colour Autumn Cycling Tours around Toronto http://www.tbn.ca/